Pag Town
On Pag, Pag Town is a 15th-century walled Renaissance settlement, with attractions including a proud church, the Bishop’s Palace, and the Lace Gallery displaying lace made by Benedictine nuns. Beyond town lie the vast salt pans upon which Pag’s wealth was founded, and a dairy making Pag cheese.
The best beach
A wide arc of smooth white stones fringes the translucent turquoise bay, backed by pinewoods, at Saharun beach, near Božava on the island of Dugi Otok. It’s quite remote but you can arrive by excursion boat from Zadar.
The best day trip
From the seaside town of Starigrad Paklenica, hike up the dramatic Velika Paklenica Canyon in Paklenica National Park on the southern slopes of Velebit, to visit Manita Peć, a limestone cave adorned with stalactites and stalagmites.
Where to eat and drink
In Novalja on the island of Pag, Boškinac uses locally reared lamb and fresh Adriatic seafood to create sublime modern dishes. It was given a Michelin star in 2019.
On the limestone slopes behind the seaside resort of Petrčane, Kraljevski Vinogradi winery is open for tasting – try their white Pošip and reds Plavac Mali and Crljenak..
Where to stay
On the island of Dugi Otok, Villa Nai is a superb boutique property set amid olive groves, with eight rooms and suites, two restaurants and an outdoor pool.
In Pag Town, Hotel Pagus has a pebble beach out front, a small spa and is kinder on the budget.
Direct flights to the Kvarner region’s main city, Rijeka, are fairly limited, with only Ryanair offering a service from the UK. Alternatively, fly to nearby Pula or Zagreb.
Overlooking the Kvarner Gulf, and backed by the pine-clad mountains of Gorski Kotar, the industrial port city of Rijeka, with its Austro-Hungarian architecture, was European Capital of Culture 2020. Nearby, Opatija, now a somewhat dowdy resort, is the birthplace of Croatian tourism – wealthy Central Europeans began convalescing here, enjoying the mild climate and therapeutic seawater, in the late 19th century.
From Rijeka, ferries and catamarans run to the nearby islands of Lošinj, Cres and Rab, while the nearest and biggest island, Krk, is joined to the mainland by a road bridge. Lošinj, “the island of vitality”, offers several upmarket hotels with spas; wild and rugged Cres is known for sheep farming; Rab has some of Croatia’s rare sandy beaches and a medieval capital.
Where to go
Mali Lošinj
On the island of Lošinj, Mali Lošinj is built around a long narrow sheltered bay, backed by pinewoods. Historically its wealth was based on seafaring and shipbuilding, then in the late-19th-century it became a place of convalescence for Austro-Hungarian aristocracy, who built gracious villas overlooking the bay. Today it is home to several plush waterside hotels, complete with spas.
Rab Town
Rising from the sea upon a small narrow peninsula, car-free Rab Town takes you back to medieval times. Three parallel cobbled main alleys are linked by stone steps, with attractions including monasteries, churches and four elegant bell towers.
The best beach
On Rab’s northeast coast, near Lopar, Paradise beach (Rajska plaža) is a sandy one-mile strip with a shallow sea, water sports facilities and beach volleyball, giving onto shallow water, ideal for kids.
The best day trip
High above the Kvarner Gulf, in the mountains of Gorski Kotar, you’ll find Risnjak National Park. From the ticket office at Crni Lug, hike the three-mile Leska educational path, an easy circular route taking you through meadows and woodland and ideal for families with kids.
